Kupang: Not a tourist destination

I had heard Kupang was not the best place to visit.  “It’s dirty and it’s loud,” they said.  A trip to this city was not on my “to see” list, but it couldn’t be avoided.  We are helping Novi and Esti get passports.  In Indonesia, everyone who wants a passport must personally visit the main office for the province they live in.  For Nusa Tenggara Timor (where we live), that office is located in West Timor in the city of Kupang. 

So.... Novi, Esti, Colby, and I ventured to Timor.  We rented a room at a hotel on the beach. 

I was thinking “ocean views”.  Fun!  Unfortunately, you can not see the ocean do to the concrete walls “protecting” the rooms.  And the TV you see in the above photo – it was only there to tease.  It didn’t actually work.  Nor did the hot water.  There was a real toilet, but no real toilet paper.  Beggars can’t be choosers, right?

Kupang is a large city that sprawls.  Walking is not recommended due to the distances between attractions (and I use the word loosely) and due to the widespread drug problem.  Absolutely everywhere we went had a sign reminding visitors that the use of narcotics is not permitted.  Seriously....everywhere. 

We ventured to the mall via bemo.  A bemo is a mini-bus that doubles as a discotech regardless of the time of day.  Here Colby demonstrates how to “stay cool” on the mobile dance club.

Here he shows his true colors. 

Warning:  If you do venture to Kupang and decide to utilize bemos (as they are cheap and relatively efficient), beware they are the only place I did not see the No Narcotics Signs.  This lack of the ubiquitous reminder was sometimes evident in the bloodshot eyes of the bemo driver.

The mall had an escalator and a KFC with a playground – a step in the right direction for someone missing modern conveniences.   

We had planned to check out Gua Monyet (Monkey Cave), but were advised not to by the hotel staff, a waitress, and a bemo driver.  Apparently in addition to monkeys in the cave and a large traditional gong, Gua Monyet is a popular spot for drug and sex trafficking. 

The more we learned about Kupang, the more I realized it was not the best place for a “family” outing.  It became clear that we would be traveling only to the passport office and staying close to the hotel until time to return to Sumba.  Fortunately, there was a decent beach spot not a 20 yards from the hotel. 

Colby is now an excellent fisherman.  He caught many little fish in the tidepools.  He “befriended” one little fish. 

Poor thing.  Can you see it? Here, let me help.

He continued to dump water on this little fish washing back into the tidepool and recatch it.  It did not live long.  It might even be dead already in the picture above.  He wanted to bring it back with us.  I know they had become good friends and all, but a dead fish a good pet does not make. 

The girls successfully got their passports and we RAN to the airport, which does boast a few statues

I don’t think we will be returning to Kupang anytime soon, unless it is only to stop over on our way somewhere else. 

Random update

Just a quick update.....
1.  Darcy the wonder dog has gotten herself in a family way.  Just what Sumba needs.... more dogs.  What they really need is a vet!

2.  Someone from our study village was angry they couldn't participate in a human landing catch* one night, so they set fire to the entomology team's experimental hut.  

3.  Colby, Novi, Esti, and I are off to W. Timor to visit the bustling metropolis of Kupang this weekend.  Everyone here thinks Chris will starve do death without us.  I don't think he will have a problem finding food on his own (or beer for that matter).  I am positive he will not do any dishes or wash any of his dirty duds while we are away :).

 *For a human landing catch,you sit very still all night long and let mosquitos bite you.  When a mosquito lands you catch it in a cup so someone from the entomology team can record the species and time.  Sounds like fun, right?

Who would of thought?

When Chris first suggested moving to Sumba, Indonesia for a year, I am sure I thought he was completely cracked.  Imagine your spouse, in all seriousness, telling you that he wants to take you and your toddler and move to the other side of the planet. 

Perhaps, you are thinking... wow... Australia! or..... Spain!  It would be incredible to live there for a year!

“Yeah that would be fun,” he says, “but what wouldn’t it be totally awesome to live in Sumba!” 

Sumba........ where the h.e. double hockey sticks is Sumba?

“Indonesia!” he exclaims.  Then he proceeds to describe Sumba as a “remote and inhospitable” island, where we can study malaria. 

Cracked.  Totally cracked. 

Over the next few weeks, his plan developed and he continued to explain how he really believes this move would be incredibly beneficial for our family.  He truly believes that moving to a different hemisphere on the other side of the International Dateline will improve our financial situation, propel our careers, and give us a chance to connect as a family. 

When he first told me of this plan, I nodded and made the appropriate “I’m listening” noises, but never thought we would truly take such a gigantic leap.

Many long conversations later... here we are.  The Nixons have been living in Sumba, Indonesia for 6 months.

I can honestly say that this adventure has been phenomenal for our family.  Chris was right.   (Oh... please don’t tell him I said that.  It will only go to his head and who knows where he will try and convince me to live next!)  Our finances are improving.  We have networked with some amazing people in global health who we hope to collaborate with in the future.  We are learning an enormous amount about epidemiology, statistics, fieldwork, etc, and we have discovered that we work really well together in formal settings.  We are both writing manuscripts.  Chris is working on a review and a pathway to independence career grant (a big deal).  I have submitted 3 grants this year, and knitted my brains out.  (Oh... and I have lost 15 lbs... yeah!!!)

Many cool projects have come out of our time here already.  Together with the help of some dear friends in the US, the Sumba Youth Initiative has skyrocketed.  If you take a peek in the side bar you will see that we have raised over $3000.  I have hired a crew in anticipation of starting the first phase of well construction after the monsoons stop (mid February).  The Panti Asuhan Sinar Kasih is overwhelmed with joy.  SYI is already working on our next project idea!  I couldn’t be more excited about the direction this project is heading. 

Colby is learning a new language and has made a ton of friends including his best friend Darcy.

 Colby is potty-trained, growing and learning.  He gets into tons of trouble, chases chickens, and attempts to catch frogs, lizards, and grasshoppers.  He and his Dad work on projects together.  Colby is a big fan of screwdrivers!  Screwdrivers take a back seat to chocolate though!  

I can honestly say that my completely cracked husband came up with an out-of-the-park homerun with this one!