Trash

What happens to your trash if there is no trash man and no *gasp* recycling service? This problem has plagued us since our arrival. Chris and I are not perfect in our conservation practices, but we do make an effort. We try to conserve energy and water. We recycle and try to reuse what we can. In Sumba, we have drastically reduced the amount of waste we create. Colby is using cloth training pants and is mostly potty trained at this point. (He is scared to do #2 in the toilet. In his defense, the toilet here is a little scary.) Packaging on food is considerably less than in the states. Nothing in Sumba is thrown away until every possible use has been exhausted. Regardless of these changes, we still have trash. This trash has to be dealt with. It is frightening to actually see the trash you accumulate.

 Most people here just toss their trash over the hill or out of sight. The sides of roads and any fields are littered with plastic water bottles and paper trash. Cans and bottles are tossed from car windows when their contents have been drained. We make an effort to pick up trash when we can and to suggest alternatives to slinging it out the window as we barrel down the road to Kodi.

 The real problem is what to do with the trash once we have convinced someone not litter. We usually bring it home with us and add it to our growing pile of waste. Now what? At the moment, our options are not ideal. We can bury it or burn it.

Beer bottles, however, are piling up on our front porch. The bolehs (Westerners) of Bukit Sunyi are gaining quite the reputation with their collection of green glass.

Bottles won’t burn and I have issues with burying them. No one wears shoes here. I refuse to contribute to Sumba’s broken glass collection an risk causing wounds in some poor kid’s feet whose parents won’t take him to the clinic for antibiotics because they owe someone a caribou (a post of another day). We have been able to find uses and places for other items in our trash. Any plastic bottles are quickly requested from locals to use for selling motorbike fuel.

I kept hoping that some solution like the fuel would present itself for the beer bottles. And it did. That’s how things work around here. You just have to voice your need or desire and miraculously something appears. Chris asked Esty for her opinion about the bottles and where they should go. She said she would think. What she really meant was that she would speak to her family and find out if anyone had a need for the boleh’s collection. Her aunt’s family is coming to get the bottles this week since they will be making coconut oil soon and need beer bottles to put the oil in. They sell the oil for about $1 per large bottle.

Similar solutions haven’t presented for other items in our trash yet. We do have a nice little tomato garden now, so a compost pile would make useful fertilizer. We are trying to put together materials for a compost pile, but we have not yet found an ideal location. Dogs and chickens ravage any available food source and anything that smells like it might be a food source. Our attempts so far have just made larger messes. We will keep trying. I wonder what sort of impact this will have on our behavior when we return to the states. I hope we will not fall back into the same old routine. Regardless, any pioneering recyclers out there should head to Sumba. They could use your help. 

Hell hath no fury like Mother Nature scorned

Warning: No photos today. Just an interesting story... well at least I think so.

The facts: Indonesia is a country besieged by natural disasters. Precariously perched on the Pacific Ring of Fire, there are volcanoes erupting, earthquakes, and tsunamis. The news has been littered with stories about the most recent disaster that occurred just a few days ago off the coast of Sumatra. A 7.7 earthquake struck at the same fault (out in the ocean) that shook that part of the world in 2004. The earthquake six years ago set off a tsunami that killed more than 230,000 people in more than 10 countries. Padang, Sumatra was one of the hardest hit regions. In the past 48 hours, they have endured 15 earthquakes (the primary tremor followed by 14 aftershocks), and a tsunami that wiped away homes and entire villages in Sumatra and the remote Mentawi Islands (very famous surf spot). One small village of 200 people is completely gone and only 40 people have been found so far. The death toll is rising (more than 100 confirmed, 500 still missing, reports still coming in) and rescue crews can’t get to some of the islands because the conditions are too dangerous. All of the shaking going on in the Northwestern corner of Indonesia has disturbed a volcano on the island of Java called Mt. Merapi. The last I heard 25 people had been killed.

The story: A spiritual leader, a shaman of sorts, named Mbah Maridjan guards Mt. Merapi. It is his job to maintain harmony with the volcano so that the villages at the base of this volatile mountain can live in peace. Two years ago, reports from seismologists indicated that Mt. Merapi would erupt with furor. Government officials issued warnings and directed villagers to evacuate. The villagers did not go from their homes. The trusted elder, Mbah Maridjan, assured them that Merapi was at peace, and he was right. Merapi did not spew fire and ash as predicted. As predictions that Merapi might react to the recent earthquake poured in, Indonesians, particularly the Javanese, looked to Mbah Maridjan for reassurance. As is the custom and belief here, Mbah Maridjan began to pray. This morning he was found at Mt. Merapi kneeling in pray with his hands outstretched along the ground. Mbah Maridjan had passed away. Within hours of the guardian’s death, Mt. Merapi began erupting.

Beetle Nut

Beetle nut, known as siripina to the locals, is a mild stimulant (think caffeine) and suppresses appetite. Chewing beetle nut requires 3 different pieces. The first is the siripina itself, which looks like reddish-brown nuts. The next part is a stick-like thing that you use to put lime (yup...ground up limestone) into your mouth with the siripina.

All of this is chewed together and causes you to produce an obscene amount of bright red salvia. People in Sumba chew beetle nut constantly. The streets and front porches here are covered with red splotches from people spitting their red salvia. Chris, of course, had to try it. Esty purchased some for him at the market for the bargain price of 3000 rupiah (33 cents). His normally pristine white teeth were instantly turned red and his lips were painted scarlet. 

He has since tried it several more times. I think he is hoping that it will taste better. It didn’t. Since, Chris seems to be game to chew it every once in awhile. Esty keeps some around the house. She seems to really enjoy chewing it. 

 

I am not sure what people like about it. I have not yet tried it, and I am not sure I will. All of the spitting is a little too much for me. Almost everyone here chews beetlenut, and they carry all the necessary components around in little satchels. It is easy to spot those who makan siripina and those who do not. With any sort of prolonged use, the siripina stains your teeth a grotesque shade of burnt sienna. (Thank you Bob Ross and The Joy of Painting for my extensive knowledge of burnt sienna and its many hues.) Eventually, it kills your teeth turning them black. As Chris found out, repeated brushing is required to remove the Bob Ross burnt sienna after even just one use.

Signs

Do you believe in signs? Do you think that loved ones, the universe, or a higher power sometimes sends you messages from the great beyond to guide and direct you? I think this happens more than most people like to admit, and this week Chris was slapped in the face by signs – literally.

The week started off a bit strange. Chris went surfing in Wainyapu (our current field site) on Monday during his lunch break. The waves weren’t so big, but he was having a decent time. Well, until someone sent the first sign.

I am told the board is fixable, but Chris has run out of fiberglass and epoxy. Apparently, these items are essential for diy surfboard repair. He wasn’t too distraught, though. There are a plethora of surf shops in Bali and people regularly travel between Sumba and Bali. It won’t be too difficult to get the materials he needs. Besides there was a swell coming and he still has his “gun” (a particular type of surfboard, or the pet name Chris has given the board – I don’t actually know.)

To make the most of the swell, we made plans to travel back to Pantai Marosi and stay at Sumba Nautil Resort. This time only Chris and I would go. It would be the first trip we have ever taken without Colby. It seemed perfect. Marosi is only about a 2-hour drive, so we would be close, Colby is in fantastic hands with Novi and Esty, and the resort is beautiful so I would be entertained while Chris surfed. Since it would be just the two of us, we decided to go using the motorbike, which is really just an oversized scooter. We travel to Wainyapu often by motorbike and that takes at least 1.5 hours.

Chris ventured to the local hardware store to see if he could find some scrap metal to make a surfboard rack. While digging through a pile of old kickstands and metal rods, he heard a loud crash. He ran outside and saw a man flying through the air. He had been speeding down the road on his motorbike and hit a tank truck. The blow knocked his unfastened helmet right off his head. When he hit the pavement, Chris said he was unresponsive and bleeding from a large gash on his head. Okay... call me crazy, but I think witnessing a (most likely) fatal motorbike accident is perhaps sign #2. However, Chris was not swayed from the trip. We both have excellent helmets and wear them fastened. Chris is very cautious and does not drive like a maniac. He decided it was only a reminder to be extra cautious.

As planned, we left at 5:45am Wednesday morning with the “gun” strapped to the bike. It was a relatively uneventful journey. Though, we did see this sign and thought it odd enough to stop and take a photo.

Looking back, it probably meant “CAUTION”. At the time, we thought – wow! A sign showing how excited we are about our little trip!!

We arrived at Sumba Nautil at 8am. Mr. Alli checked us in immediately and Chris made a beeline for a break called Sunset Lefts. I decided to take advantage of the quiet by sitting on our veranda knitting and watching butterflies. It was deceptively peaceful. Two hours later, as promised, Chris returned.

Apparently, the swell had arrived, and the waves were enormous.

As I was wiping the blood from his disturbingly abundant wounds, he proceeded to tell me how he had already put his nose back into place. You see - it is broken. He noticed that it was hanging to one side of his face as he came out of the water. Before he had a chance to think about it, he grabbed his nose and pulled back to its original position. Then he puked. I don’t know how he managed to strap his now cracked “gun” back on to the bike or how he drove himself back up the hill to the hotel.

Mr. Alli was nice enough to drive us to the local clinic. For about $8, a nurse stitched up his cheekbone (1 stitch) and his eyelid (3 stitches). While they did have some anesthetic to numb his face for the, shall we say, darning, they had nothing stronger than Tylenol for the pain.

Needless to say, someone wants Chris to be more careful. Since he didn’t get their subtle messages earlier in the week. They smacked him upside the head with a big warning. Chris will not be surfing for at least 3 weeks (healing time for his face). It might be longer depending on how quickly he can get his boards repaired.

Personally, I think it was Grandma Chlo Ann and Nana Foster who sent the messages. Those ladies always had a way of getting their point across. Don’t worry Grandma and Nana. He got the message – loud and clear.

Fenced in

You might remember from earlier photographs of our rental house there was a fence around the yard made of bamboo.

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A bamboo fence, being extremely economical, is quite common here.  The fence was in decent shape.  There were a few spots in need of repair, but nothing drastic.  The gate, or at least the large space underneath the gate, was a problem.  Large and small dogs would scoot under the gate to steal Darcy (our puppy’s) dinner.  One dog, particular, was rather scary.  He was not afraid of any of us and actually tried to bite Colby once.  It was long before Colby discovered he, too, could escape under the gate and run wild in the field across the street.   We expressed our concern about the gate to our landlord Pak Cos, and then made sure to block the open with scrap lumber.  Pak Cos told us he would look into a new gate that would better protect Colby.  Soon after this initial conversation, he began installing a much larger metal gate.   The new gate is made of metal bars and is about 6 feet tall.

 

Then, a truck showed up and unloaded a pile of hand cut stones in front of the house.  Later that day, Pak Cos and his nephews tore down the bamboo fence and proceeded to construct a stone-wall with sharp metal poles and shards of glass on top.  

While we are grateful for better security, initially the new fence made us feel a little....umm.... trapped.  As soon as we started to get use to the transition from seeing natural materials out our front door that melted gently into the scenery to seeing a more modern stone and metal structure, Pak Cos altered the view.  He painted the metal parts a bright red.

Red paint is a considerably bold color for Sumba.  Everything here is done out of necessity.  It is rare to see anything that exists for purely aesthetic reasons.  We assumed red was the only color available right now.  The red paint was nice, though.  It helped the gray barrier fuse better with the landscape.  It blended with the red hues on the trees and shrubs in the field across the street.  I liked the red paint.  I was used to the red paint.  Pak Cos apparently did not.

I don’t even think the second coat of red paint had completely dried when Pak Cos began painting the fence pink.  It reminds me of flamingoes.  He thinks the pink is better.  Not as bold.  More subtle.  Maybe.... but he hasn’t finished painting the fence. 

The fence remained this mix of pink and red for several days when Pak Cos finally returned to paint some more.  I thought he had come to finish painting the red parts pink, but a single color apparently is not the plan.  This time he brought another can of red paint.  He is now painting the concrete poles at the end of the fence red.....WHAT!!!

I think we will throw a Valentine’s Day party.  In October.

Tidak Orangtuya

Bukit Sunyi, where we live, is home to 3 schools for older children (akin to junior high and high schools). Everyday I see children walk past the house carrying large jugs of water or bundles of kindling. These children are much too small for the schools on the hill, and they are not wearing school uniforms. They are a little dusty and careworn. Their clothes are tattered, dirty and often too large, and most do not have any shoes on. These children are orphans. Either they have tidak orangtuya (no parents), or were turned over because their parents could not afford to care for them. Regardless, all 39 of them live in an orphanage near our house.

My heart breaks every time they walk past, which happens several times a day. They walk from the orphanage past our house about half a mile for water. Sometimes they are carrying sticks covered with grasshoppers. I asked one boy, probably 7 years old, what he was going to do with all of those grasshoppers. He proceeded to explain how delicious grasshoppers are fried (belalang goreng). I think I’ll take his word for it.

Other times, they have collected payapa flowers or banana blooms – also good for eating. I can attest to the tastiness of these treats since Novi and Esty regularly pick these from the field across the street.

These children are always very polite and eager to chat. They like to stop and say hello to Colby. They are particularly excited if he comes out and brings his ball to play with them. We played an impromptu game of volleyball using our fence as a net the other day.

I enjoy seeing all of their dirty, little faces light up. I wish I could bring them all inside for a bath and a good meal. I have always imagined the family I would build as large. For many reasons (social, ethical, and medical), I will not be genetically responsible for all members of this potential clan. I have always wanted to foster or adopt a child in need of a family. Before we left for Indonesia, I actually looked into adopting a child while we are here. Unfortunately, I don’t think it is possible given all of the requirements. The Indonesian government does not seem so keen on international adoptions. I had accepted the fact that adoption was not yet in the cards for us, but I never imagined there would actually be children in need of a home literally in my backyard.

Did I mention my breaking heart? 

Chris, who is concerned I might end up in jail for child trafficking, continually attempts to convince me that what we are doing here is enough. Not only are we helping with the fight against a disease that kills millions of children every year, we are also supporting the local economy here. We are supporting local farmers and artisans, employing 2 locals in our house, and hiring locals from the field site almost everyday. (I am listing it here more to convince myself than anyone else.) I still can’t help but feel that the universe has placed me in this location for a reason. Hopefully, that reason is something more than just to torture my bleeding heart.

I have come up with an idea that, so far, doesn’t make Chris twitch. I think I can do something to better their lot in life without getting arrested. Children under the age of six should not be lugging heavy, dirty jugs of water in their bare feet for a kilometer. I want to get them a well. I know this idea sounds huge. I know it might not work, but I have to try. Every child, no matter where they live, should have access to clean, drinkable water. Don’t worry... I have a plan.

The Staff

Novi and Esty

The day after we arrived in Sumba we hired 2 girls to work for us. We had been told that we would also need to hire a guard, but that does not seem to be the case. The two girls we hired take care of absolutely everything (laundry, cleaning, cooking, and watching over Colby). These girls start their day at 6am and finish after dinner. They work 6 days a week and come back on Sunday evenings in time for dinner. They requested a salary of 500,000 rupiah per month (that’s $55). They live with us and we pay for all of the food. It costs about $45 per week to feed 5 people and the dog. I have never come across cheaper childcare let alone housekeeping services. The spendthrift in me is elated, but the humanitarian is shocked by how little money is expected for a full days work and how hard it is for locals to get that money.

Novi:

Novi is 17 years old and she just finished the Indonesian equivalent of highschool. She is still very much a teenager, but works harder than most highschoolers I know. She speaks a fair amount of English and is a great help when we are trying to communicate with the neighbors. She has breakfast on the table by 7am and has already swept and mopped the floors. Novi does all of the shopping and buys the most interesting vegetables many of which I have never seen or heard of before. She tries very hard to make interesting dishes and likes to learn new recipes. 

Novi desperately wants to be a nurse, but does not yet have the money to attend university. The tuition is about $300 per year. With the help of her mother (who is a nurse at Karitas Hospital), she has opened a savings account and is saving all of the money she is making this year. She wants to save at least enough for 1 year and hopes to improve her English. She also has dreams of traveling. She has never left Sumba and has hardly been anywhere outside of Waitabula.

Novi is otherwise a typical teenage girl. She has a boyfriend (Jami) who just started university on another island. She is struggling with how to handle a long distance relationship. Oops! Like any typical teenager, her relationship status changes as frequently as the weather in New England. Apparently, in the words of Novi, “Jami is broken. Forever.” She is infatuated with Daniel Craig (the latest James Bond)! She finds everything that we do incredibly entertaining. She finds the way Chris tries to mime things he can’t communicate in Bahasa Indonesia gut-wrenchingly funny and usually doubles over with laughter. I love it that she feels so comfortable with us.

Esty:

We hired Esty to primarily care for Colby. She is older than Novi with 24 years under her belt and very good with children. She worked for a family in Bali for 2 years. Esty wakes up early with Novi and takes out the trash and starts on the laundry which is all done by hand in a wash basin with a scrub brush. Then she shifts her focus to Colby helping Novi with household chores when Colby is playing contentedly. Most of the time she chases him around the yard or they go for walks around our neighborhood to look at the horses, chase grasshoppers, and play soccer with the other children. Both girls love Colby very much. They call him Prince Colby!

Esty wants to be a teacher and has also been putting away money from her jobs to pay for university. She hopes to have enough to start school in a year or so. She knows a few words in English, but is trying to learn more by talking to us. We try every morning to learn one new phrase. Esty and Novi say it in English and we say it in Bahasa Indonesia. Esty was very quiet at first – partly because of the language barrier, but seems to be opening up. She is extremely good with Colby. She is not over bearing and lets him explore, but still manages to keep him safe. She is a true force working hard all day long.

Esty is a wealth of knowledge about local traditions.  She has a boyfriend name Petrus who is already in school to be a teacher.  We talk quite often about what has to happen if she and Petrus want to marry.  They are catholic, but local tradition still reigns supreme here.  The process is quite long and very interesting.  I will post about it as soon as I have compiled enough information!

Both Chris and I are seriously impressed with these young ladies. They have goals and ambition. They are working their tails off to make their dreams a reality and better their station in life. I hope we can help them along the way. They truly deserve it.