Waingapu: Fibermania

For Hari Natal (aka Christmas), we ventured to the Eastern part of Sumba.  Sumba Timor is as different from Sumba Barat as California is from Rhode Island. 

There were really two parts to this trip: textiles and sightseeing.  Too much occurred during our 5 day sojourn to write about it all in one part.  Today’s post will be all about the famous East Sumbanese textiles.  I have chosen to write about this part first, because I am too stinking excited about all of the yarn, the swifts, and the weaving that takes place on that side of the island.  If I try to write about all of the other fun the rest of the family had, it will just end up being about how of the delicious fiber arts anyways.  It’s best if I just get it out of my system!

Ikat refers to a dying technique used to give these pieces color.  Originally dyes on the island were all made from natural materials.  Now there is a mix of natural and synthetic dyes being used.  It can be difficult, if not impossible, to tell them apart on the street.  You must find a weaving cooperative that is dedicated to the old ways.  We found 2 in Waingapu. 

To dye the Kain (the name for the woven fabric) with natural dyes, you start with these roots, and leaves. 

They make indigoby packing the leaves from the indigo plant in a woven basket (just like the one in the photo above) with water.  The basket is then hung up in the sun, and the water drips out.  After a month or so, you are left with these fantastic blue cakes.  Traditionally, only women are permitted to make indigo dye in Sumba.  We were told by my new friend Freddy (he runs a weaving cooperative) that there is one man in East Sumba who can make indigo dye.  He is permitted to because he is homosexual.  Pieces dyed with this gentleman’s indigo are rare and often command a higher price. 

Red and yellow come from roots (pictured above).  They will also use mud to dye some pieces a dark chocolate color. 

Yarn is then wrapped around two bamboo logs and a cross string to divide the two sides of the fabric. 

 

Next, bamboo slats are tied to the back of the string to make it flat and easier to write on.  Using pencil, symbols passed down from generous to generous are sketched onto the strands.  The motifs are then tied off using grass similar to raffia. The portions under the raffia will not take the dye, only the exposed strands will accept the color.  The knots used to tie the grass to the strings are different depending on what color is to ultimately be given to that portion of the fabric. 

Next the strands are soaked in dye.  Indigo is always the first color.  The strings are removed from the dye and and stretched on bamboo logs again.  Portions that are to remain dark blue are retied with raffia.  Those left exposed will turn purple in the next dye – red.  The process continues in this fashion, layering color after color, until the design is complete. 

The strands are then returned to the logs and ready for weaving.  A red or black strand is often used for the weaving, depending on the overall color of the kain. This strand will be mostly hidden between the dyed motif. 

From start to finish, this process takes at least 10 months.  Larger, extensively detailed pieces can take 2 years.  Kain and woven sarongs can be purchased on the street for $30-$100.  While these pieces are exquisitely beautiful and are all hand dyed and hand woven, they are probably not dyed with natural dyes.  The color of kains made with natural dyes, I think, is much more intense.  These pieces generally range from $150- $500 depending on size, detail, and the number of colors used.  A few truly fine pieces can be sold for far more. 

My credit score was only saved by the lack of technology here or I might have maxed out a few pieces of plastic.  If you are interested in owning one of your very own naturally dyed ikat, leave a comment or send me an email.  I would be happy to have an excuse for a shopping trip to Sumba Timor!